Aku Seorang Pengembara

Aku,

pengembara di jalan yang panjang,

menyusuri benua, laut, dan gunung,

menyulam mimpi di hela nafas bumi.

Di dasar lautan,

aku menyelam mencari sunyi,

menemui dunia tanpa suara,

namun penuh kehidupan yang berbisik rahsia.

Di puncak gunung,

aku mendaki menentang dingin,

mencabar tubuh, melatih jiwa,

hingga awan tunduk di bawah kaki.

Di perjalanan hidup,

aku belajar bahawa keberanian

bukan pada menawan puncak atau menakluk laut,

tetapi pada hati yang rela terus melangkah,

walau sepi, walau payah.

Anakanda,

catatan ini hanya setitis

dari samudera pengalaman ayahmu,

agar kau tahu,

dunia ini luas—

dan hidup ini indah

bila dijalani dengan syukur dan berani.

Aku,

tinggalkan jejak di bumi,

tapi ingin sekali

meninggalkan hikmah di hatimu

PENDAKIAN KE PUNCAK BENUA AFRIKA - KILIMANJARO (Bahagian 1)

PENDAKIAN KE PUNCAK BENUA AFRIKA - GUNUNG KILIMANJARO

BAB 1

Hari 0 - 1 September 2023 
Bandar Seri Begawan - Kuala Lumpur - Addis Ababa - Tanzania

Segalanya bermula dari satu impian yang tercetus selepas aku berjaya menamatkan ekpedisi ke Everest Base Camp (EBC) di Nepal pada October 2022. Semasa aku berdiri di kaki gunung Everest yang megah berdiri betul-betul di hadapan aku membuatkan aku merasa amal kerdil namun kejayaaan untuk sampai ke tempat ini adalah suatu kejayaan yang membanggakan. Pengalaman ini bukan main-main - sejuk, udara yang nipis, penat fizikal dan mental namun semangat aku amat kental membuatkan segala kepayahan hilang dibawa angin dingin Everest.

Yang pasti suatu kepuasan, aspirasi kejayaan dan rasa kebanggaan. 

Marangu Gate

Setelah kembali dari Nepal, aku rasa bagai suatu kehilangan - suatu perkara terdetik di hati - "What's next?". Bagai mengerti apa yang terdetik di hati, FB aku mula memaparkan gunung Kilimanjaro. Adakah ini destinasi aku seterusnya ? Aku pernah terfikir kiranya aku akan berjaya mendaki tanpa rakan2 seperjuangan - team hiking aku yang terkenal dengan "kaki bako" - mereka membako demi kejayaan bersama ha ha ha. "tidak ada gambar kira tak sampai". Mampukah aku melakukan pendakian ini sendirian? Namun kali ini aku nekad ingin melakukan ekpedisi sendirian tanpa team hiking aku... yeah AKU BOLEH!

Gunung Kilimanjaro, gunung tunggal bebas yang tertinggi di dunia bererti tiada gunung-ganang disekelilingnya. Hanya gunung Kilimanjaro satu2nya gunung yang megah berdiri mengapai bumbung benua Afrika dengan ketinggian mencapai 5,895 meter, jauh lebih tinggi dari EBC 5,364m. 

Tanpa membuang masa aku mula mengkaji laluan ke puncak - Marangu, Lemosho, Machame dan beberapa lagi. Aku juga mula menghubungi "hiking provider" di Tanzania, Afrika serta mendapatkan "quotation".

Selepas timbang-tara beberapa pilihan, akhirnya aku memilih Global Expedition Club (GEC) yang diketuai oleh Encik Ravichandran, pendaki tersohor Malaysia yang sudah 3-4 kali menawan gunung Everest. Bukan calang2 orang. Faktor aku memilih GEC adalah kerana ini syarikat Malaysia - tak lah kena buang kat hutan Afrika kalau tak larat nanti dan kedua, faktor sebenarnya - aku berpeluang untuk menambah ilmu serta praktikal dalam ilmu gunung ini. Maklumlah dia kan seorang Legend kan?!

GEC berkerjasama dengan Africa Joy Tours dari Tanzania sebagai rakan gabungan dalam ekpedisi ini.

Kilimanjaro Airport

Dengan semangat berkobar2 aku mula melakar program latihan aku sendiri. Selain dari tempat latihan biasa seperti Sarang Helang, Buki Silat, Bukit Saeh, aku juga merancang untuk mengikut expedisi ke gunung Kinabalu bersama rakan sepejabat aku. Untuk ketiga kalinya aku mendaki gunung Kinabalu - pada bulan Julai 2023 setinggi 4,097 meter sebagai ujian ketahan mental dan fizikal aku bagi menghadapi gunung Kilimanjaro yang jauh lebih tinggi dan menyeramkan. 

Agak bangga juga berkat latihan yang teratur serta disiplin yang tinggi, aku berjaya mendaki jauh lebih pantas dari dahulu serta dapat membawa team dari pejabat untuk sampai ke puncak gunung Kinabalu. Rasa macam guide lak ha ha ha. Lain kali kita cerita bab nie. 

Anak2 memakai T-shirt ABC, EBC dan Kilimanjaro

Berbekalkan pengalaman EBC dahulu serta pendakian gunung Kinabalu kurang sebulan yang lalu memberi keyakinan yang tinggi bahawa aku sudah bersedia sepenuhnya. Cabaran udara sejuk dan nipis sehingga mencapai -15C pernah aku tempohi dahulu memjadi pengalaman yang bermakna dalam menempoh cabaran ini. Difahamkan gunung Kilimanjaro yang hampir 6,000 meter, lebih tinggi dari EBC serta dikatakan suhu mencapai -20C pada waktu malam. Pada suatu sudut aku rasa sudah bersedia dan pada sudut lain, seram lah pulak. 

Sokongan Padu Dari Keluarga dan Rakan2 Malaysia & Brunei

Tarikh yang dinanti2kan telah tiba. Expedisi bermula dari Bandar Sri Begawan, Brunei ke Kuala Lumpur, dengan penerbangan Royal Brunei Airlines, dan seterusnya dari Kuala Lumpur, ke Addis Ababa melalui Singapore seterusnya ke Tanzania dengan penerbangan Ethiopian Airlines. 

Dari Brunei ke Tanzania, campur tolak transit - kira2 hampir 38 jam perjalanan. Aku betul2 penat dan satu perkara yang aku betul2 terlupa dalam perancangan aku adalah - jetlagged! Terasa badan tidak berapa selesa setelah mengharungi perjalanan sejauh ini.  

Letih!

Kami menginap di Panama Garden Resort di Moshi. Cuaca berangin dan agak sejuk. Keliihatan gunung Kilimanjaro berbalam2 diselaputi awan dari kejauhan. Aku yakin dalam 7 hari ini, pasti aku akan menawan puncak itu.

Letih memang letih, namun aku kuatkan hati untuk membuat persiapan malam itu juga - menyusun duffel-bag dengan keperluan pendakian, hiking bag - barang keperluan harian serta luggage bag -  pakaian untuk persediaan pulang dan akan ditinggalkan di hotel penginapan. Mula awal, esok tak kalut hihihi.

Jet-lagged - sukar untuk tidur, ku cuba juga agar dapat rehat sebelum memulakan pendakian esok!

 

Hari 1 - September 3, 2023 (Ahad)
Marangu Gate ke Mandara Hut, Ketinggian: 2700 meter

Setelah selesai sarapan, kami memulakan perjalanan menuju ke Marangu Gate untuk pendaftaran serta bertemu dengan Tim Sokongan yang akan membantu kami dalam pendakian ini. Sejujurnya aku terlupa satu perkara dalam persediaan aku - Jet Lagged. Maklumlah setelah berhijrah ke Negara Brunei 8 tahun yang lalu, aku sudah tidak lagi hidup sebagai konsultant yang perlu terbang serata dunia hampir setiap minggu. 

Setelah hampir sejam perjalanan dari Moshi, akhirnya kami sampai di Marangu Gate - tempat permulaan untuk mendaftar dan memulakan pendakian ke Gunung Kilimanjaro. Sessi suai kenal dengan Tim Sokongan kami yang terdiri daripada 22 orang - porter, chef, dan pelbagai tugas sokongan serta 4 orang Guide yan gberpengalaman. Terasa bersemangat pula apabila Tim Sokongan berbangsa Afrika menyanyikan lagu "Hakuna Matata" - bermakna "Jangan Risau atau Tidak Cari Masalah".

Pengalaman aku di Annapurna Basecamp (ABC) dan Everest Basecamp (EBC), team sokongan amat penting kerana mereka membantu untuk kita berjaya - aku berikan coklat dan makanan ringan yang aku bawa dari Brunei hihihi... selepas itu, mereka betul2 jaga aku ha ha rahsia nie, sebab tu team hiker lain hairan kenapa aku so special.... ha ha 

Selepas makan tengahari serta Taklimat Ringkas perdakian hari ini - kami memulakan langkah tepat pada jam 12.06 tengahari menyusuri hutan belantara Afrika yang penuh kehijauan dan misteri. Laluan hari ini tidak sukar kerana kami masih berada di bawah 2000 meter, belum ada panjat2 lagi. Laluan ini terkenal dengan jolokan "Laluan Coca Cola" kerana pada suatu ketika dahulu, ranger2 yang menjaga hutan ada menjual Coca Cola di pondok2 rehat di sepanjang perjalanan. 

Menarik!  

Pendaki dari GEC - Pertama kali jumpa

Sepanjang pendakian, guide kami tak henti-henti ulang satu frasa dalam bahasa Swahili — "pole pole," yang bermaksud "perlahan-lahan." Dia selalu ingatkan kami supaya jangan gelojoh, bertenang saja dan simpan tenaga untuk perjalanan yang masih panjang. Dan ada satu nasihat yang betul-betul lekat dalam kepala aku — datang daripada Mr. Ravichandran, ketua pendaki kami yang juga dikenali sebagai “Penakluk Everest.” 

Kata beliau, "Untuk mendaki gunung bukan bergantung kepada siapa paling kuat, tetapi siapa yang paling pandai menguruskan tenaga"

Hari ini kami ambil masa lebih kurang 4 jam untuk habiskan 9.4 kilometer. Santai-santai saja jalan sambil menikmati suasana hutan yang sejuk dan damai. Akhirnya kami sampai di Mandara Hut, tempat penginapan kami yang terletak pada ketinggian 2,727 meter. 

Fuh, puas hati!

Lead Guide Mr. Agustine

Sampai sahaja di Mandara Hut, kami mengambil kesempatan untuk berehat sebentar sambil melayan teh panas dan biskut kering – huh, lega sikit badan lepas kesejukan dan penat berjalan. 

Setelah itu, kami meneruskan pendakian ringan ke Maundi Crater, lebih kurang 2.5 kilometer pergi balik dan mengambil masa dalam sejam. Trek ni bukan saja untuk jalan-jalan, tapi lebih kepada aktiviti acclimatization – ini amat penting bagi mengelakkan penyakit Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Caranya, kita perlu naik ke tempat yang lebih tinggi, tapi tidur semula di tempat yang lebih rendah. Kira badan kita sudah log ketinggian lebih makna mudah untuk tidur pada ketinggian yang lebih rendah. 

Maundi Crater adalah kawah gunung berapi yang sudah lama mati, terletak tidak jauh dari Mandara Hut. Walaupun kecil, tapi pemandangan dari atas memang luar biasa! Nampak jelas cerun-cerun Gunung Kilimanjaro dari sudut pandang atas, dan juga sempadan Kenya dari kejauhan. 

Memang berbaloi naik!

Mandara Hut

Di Mandara Hut, terdapat ruang makan komuniti di mana semua hikers berkumpul untuk berehat. Makan malam disediakan oleh team sokongan kami dan pada malam itu, kami dijamukan dengan nasi putih panas, sayur masak kari dan ikan air tawar digoreng dengan sempurna. Memang kena dengan selera selepas penat seharian mendaki. 

Maundi Crater for Acclimation Hike

Selesai makan, kami berkumpul untuk taklimat ringkas tentang perjalanan esok. Sedikit refleksi tentang pendakian hari ini — apa yang okey, apa yang perlu diperbaiki. Suasana malam agak nyaman dan tenang dengan suhu sekitar 14°C — sejuk dan rasa segar, dan tidak sampai mengigil. Tenang sekali untuk re-charge untuk pendakian yang lebih tinggi pada keesokan harinya. 

Hari ke-2 - September 4, 2023 (Isnin)
Mandara Hut ke Horombo Hut, Ketinggian: 3700 meters

Tepat jam 6:30 pagi, kami dikejutkan dengan aroma kopi panas yang wangi menusuk hidung — dihantar terus ke bilik berserta dengan air suam untuk cuci muka dan gosok gigi. Tim sokongan menyediakan ini yang dikenali dengan "washe washe", ha ha ha memang comel bunyinya!

Kami pun cepat-cepat berkemas, simpan semua barang dalam duffle bag dan tinggalkan di bilik untuk diambil porter nanti. Selepas itu, kembali berkumpul di ruang komuniti untuk sarapan. Walaupun udara masih sejuk, matahari dah mula menampakkan sinarnya — suasana jadi cerah, nyaman, dan penuh semangat nak teruskan perjalanan hari tu. Alhamdulillah cuaca yang baik untuk mendaki! 

Insyallah. 

Pendakian ke Horombo Hut

Selepas taklimat ringkas pagi tu, lebih kurang jam 8:30 pagi, kami menyambung semula pendakian ke destinasi seterusnya — Horombo Hut, yang terletak pada ketinggian 3,700 meter. Laluan bermula dalam hutan hujan tropika yang memukau, penuh kehijauan dan bunyi-bunyian alam. Tetapi semakin lama kami mendaki, suasana semakin berubah — dari kehijauan kepada pokok-pokok renik yang semakin jarang, dan kami masuk ke zon lower alpine, di mana landskapnya lebih lapang, terbuka dan berangin kencang.

Trek ke Horombo- lebih terbuka

Pada ketika ini, kami mula dapat melihat sekilas pandang Gunung Kilimanjaro yang megah berdiri dari kejauhan — rasa teruja, kagum, dan sedikit berdebar. Sepanjang jalan, pemandangan memang luar biasa — bukit-bukau terbentang luas di kiri kanan laluan, dan udara pun makin segar dan berangin kencang. Antara gunung yang dapat dilihat dengan jelas pada lanskap yang terbuka ini adalah gunung Barkulli (harap sebutan aku betul lah..)

Menurut orang tempatan, gunung ni dianggap suci. Mereka percaya tempat ni jadi lokasi untuk berdoa kepada dewa-dewa — sama ada nak minta hujan, mahupun untuk minta dijauhkan penyakit. Cerita ni buat kami rasa lebih dekat dengan budaya dan kepercayaan komuniti setempat serta memahami betapa kuatnya hubungan mereka dengan alam sekitar.

Semakin menghampiri Horombo Hut, kami disambut dengan pemandangan pokok Lobelia yang unik dan besar-besar, seolah-olah tumbuhan dari dunia lain. Tapi sayangnya, sebahagian besar kawasan tu terkesan akibat kebakaran hutan baru-baru ni — jadi jumlah pokok tu dah tak sebanyak dulu. Walaupun begitu, pemandangan tetap memukau dan membuatkan kembara kami terasa penuh magis. Maaf aku tak sempat ambil gambar pokok semasa pendakian tadi kerana aku sudah mula rasa tak sedap badan. 

Horombo pada ketinggian 3720m 

Pendakian dari Mandara ke Horombo Hut memang terasa mencabar sekali  — jaraknya 13 km dan mengambil masa lebih kurang 6 jam 40 minit. Laluan ini menguji mental dan stamina,  kerana semakin tinggi pendakian semakin nipis udara persekitaran. Jika badan kita lambat menyesuaikan diri, mungkin terjadi AMS amat tinggi. Namun kesukaran itu, banyak juga ganjaran — pemandangan semakin memukau, rasa makin dekat dengan alam dan juga mengenal keupayaan diri sendiri.

Sampai saja di Horombo Camp, kabus tebal  serta angin kencang menyambut kami. Suhu ketika itu sekitar 8°C — sejuk menusuk hingga terasa ke tulang! Kami terus meninggalkan duffle bag dalam pondok, dan terus menbuat pendakian Acclimatization — mendaki naik sekurang- kurang 150 meter sebelum turun semula ke kem. Ini penting untuk membantu badan kita daalam menyesuaikan diri dengan ketinggian yang baru. 

Acclimatization Hike di Horombo

Beberapa orang hiker telah menunjukkan tanda2 awal Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS) — antaranya hilang selera makan dan sukar bernafas. Ini sesuatu yang amat tidak diingini berlaku kerana ianya memungkin pengidapnya terpaksa membatalkan pendakian serta melakukan pendakian turun dengan kadar segera. 

Kerana aku dah pernah lalui perkara ini semasa pendakian ke Everest Base Camp tahun lepas, aku tahu betapa pentingnya makan dengan banyak walaupun tidak berselera. Jadi aku paksa juga diri ini untuk menghabiskan makanan, sebab di altitud tinggi sinii, keperluan tenaga sangatlah penting - untuk meneruskan pendakian dan menahan sejuk yang mengila. 

Angin malam di Horombo memang terasa lain macam sekali — udara sejuk membuat kita cepat rasa penat dan menggigil. Entah berapa lapis aku pakai pun aku tak tau, masih terasa sejuk. Namun dalam kesejukan tu, ada satu rasa tenang yang susah nak digambarkan… seolah-olah alam berbicara dengan kita atau barangkali sedang menduga kita. 

 

Pemandangan Senja di Horombo di ketinggian 3720m

Seperti malam kemarin, kami mendengar taklimat rutin mengenai perancangan esok cuma kali ini nadanya jauh lebih serius — ini kerana kami berada pada altitud sekitar 3,700 meter, dan perjalanan ke Kibo Hut akan lebih mencabar. Guide kami berpesan berulang2 kali agar kami memperlahankan rentak pendakian bermula esok - strategi pendakian disesuaikan dengan ketinggian pendakian serta udara nipis, sejuk dan angin kencang. 

Aku memang layan perasaan disepanjang pendakian, fikir yang positif. Maklumlah pengalaman di EBC mengajar erti kesabaran dan keutamaan pada keselamatan. Nafas sudah terasa semput, sejuk ..jangan ceritalah!

Jadi pendek kata, “pole pole” semakin penting di sini. Kami semua mula faham, ini bukan lagi sekadar pendakian fizikal, tapi juga permainan mental dalam menguji kesabaran dan elemen keselamatan. Setiap langkah kena berhemah — perlahan, tapi tetap maju ke hadapan. Kilimanjaro makin hampir dan ada yang sudah goyah dengan kesukaran ini. 

Semasa menghampiri Horombo petang tadi, aku sudah mula terasa tak sedap badan, selepas makan malam ku muntah2 dan badan mula rasa demam. Oh tidak mungkin aku terkena AMS, ya Allah jauh aku dari ujian ini. 

Setelah menelan Postant 2 biji, aku terus masuk dalam "sleeping bag" dengan harapan esok aku kembali sihat sediakala. 

Bersambung

SirNoordinAdventure - Kilimanjaro Route  - YouTube Video 


SirNoordin

Kilimanjaro Hakuna Matata 

September 2023

Adventure to the Thin Air of Africa - Kilimanjaro Part 2

Adventure to the Thin Air of Africa 

Kilimanjaro in September 2023

Part 2

Day 3 - September 5, 2023 (Tuesday)
Horombo Hut to Kibo Hut, Elevation: 4730 meters

The morning greeted us with a bone-chilling cold as we prepared to embark on our hike to Kibo Hut, situated at an elevation of 4730 meters. We anticipated that this journey would be arduous due to the high altitude and frigid weather conditions. Setting out almost simultaneously, we began our ascent further up the mountain.

Briefing and doa' before starting the hike to Kibo

As we pressed onward and crossed several ridges, we eventually arrived at the 'Saddle,' a desolate expanse of alpine desert nestled between Kilimanjaro's two primary peaks, Mawenzi and Kibo. This barren terrain was utterly devoid of life, save for a scattering of grass. The unending stretch of lifeless land was made even more punishing by the relentless African sun and the biting cold winds that assailed us. In an attempt to boost our spirits, our guides sang along the way, providing some solace as we concentrated on our steps and breathing. It was undoubtedly a challenging endeavor.

Suddenly, one of our fellow hikers stumbled and fell, experiencing severe nausea. He appeared incredibly weak, and two of our guides had to support him on either side, guiding him along at a slow pace. We hoped he would recover once we reached Kibo Hut.

Somewhere along the trail

We paused for lunch midway through our trek, taking a break to rest on the rocky boulders along the pathway. The seemingly never-ending climb continued as we walked slowly, with Kibo Huts visible in the distance, yet the journey felt interminable. The path didn't appear excessively steep, except perhaps for the very last section, but the thin air, depleted of oxygen, transformed this into a considerable ordeal.

Finally reaching Kibo Huts at 4730 meters, the 10.3-km hike that had taken nearly seven hours felt mind-numbingly monotonous. Kibo Hut itself was a stone-built blockhouse with bunk beds, and there were no water sources nearby. This was a convergence point for hikers from different routes.

Break for Lunch

Once inside the hut, there was a sense of relief and warmth, though the temperature still lingered around 3 to 4°C. With the aid of proper clothing and a sleeping bag, we managed to stay reasonably warm. I promptly added additional layers as if preparing for the summit push later that night.

We had dinner at 6:30 pm and tried to rest, but the thin, cold air made sleep a challenging endeavor.

Kibo Hut 4730m elevation

On several occasions, I found myself needing to visit the toilet, which was located a short distance down the hillside from our hut. This was partly due to the cold weather, which made the journey a bit uncomfortable, and also because I was consciously drinking a substantial amount of water to ensure I stayed properly hydrated. With a slight feeling of dizziness and a lack of sufficient sleep, I made my way back to the hut, but I ended up taking a wrong turn that led me towards the mountainside.

Aloe Dichotoma

It wasn't until I realized I was on the wrong path that I looked up and saw a massive, imposing sight before me – Mount Kilimanjaro. My heart began to race at the sheer magnitude of the mountain. In a rush, I executed a 180-degree turn and retraced my steps back to the toilet area. Only then did I notice that there were two distinct routes, and this time, I chose the correct one that led me back to the hut. Huh!

Day 4 - September 6, 2023 (Wednesday)
Summit Push to Uhuru Peak, Elevation: 5,895 meters

At 11:30 pm, we were fully prepared to embark on our ascent to the summit, scaling the highest free-standing mountain in the world, often referred to as the "Roof of Africa." The temperature had dropped below freezing, but with all my layers of clothing, I felt reasonably confident in facing the ultimate challenge.

Right on schedule, at 12:15 am, we commenced our summit push. We proceeded cautiously and deliberately, adhering to the Swahili adage "pole-pole," meaning "slowly," and I began to sense the vertical ascent as we navigated the switchbacks in a zigzag pattern.

We managed our slow pace exceptionally well, focusing on regulating our breathing and maintaining careful footing. Our breaks were short, lasting only 1 to 2 minutes, during which we caught our breath and sipped some water. Our determination kept us pushing forward, inching our way up towards Gilman's Point.

At around 3 am, we paused along the route, finding ourselves at a considerable altitude with a breathtaking view of the mountain. The guides kindly provided us with tea to help warm our bodies during the brief 10-minute break. After this refreshing interlude, we continued our ascent.

However, as time passed, one of our fellow hikers expressed his reluctance to continue. He explained that he was feeling excessively cold and decided it was best for him to descend. Despite the challenges, I remained resolute and tried to maintain a positive mindset as we continued the ascent during the sunrise. The sight of the sun rising over the mountain did offer a sense of comfort, even though it was still a struggle to catch our breath in the thinning air.

Gilman's Point

Gilman's Point loomed above, seemingly just 30 meters away, yet it felt both tantalizingly close and frustratingly distant. It was akin to taking ten breaths for every 2 or 3 steps forward. Adding to the challenge was the soft, loose soil underfoot, which caused me to slide back a couple of steps for every 3 or 4 steps I climbed. This led to feelings of frustration, but my resolve remained strong.

I was aware that reaching Gilman's Point at 5,756 meters was a significant milestone in our journey. I knew that once I conquered this steepest part of the vertical climb, it would prepare me to push onward to Uhuru Peak, the highest point on Kilimanjaro. The belief that I had already overcome the most demanding segment of the ascent served as a powerful motivator.

Finally, at 7:45 a.m., I achieved the long-awaited moment of reaching Gilman's Point. A sense of relief washed over me, even though I felt physically drained, with little more than sheer determination propelling me toward the summit of this towering mountain. It was evident that everyone in our group was utterly exhausted, as there was minimal conversation, with each of us focusing solely on our steps and our labored breathing.

Stella Point

From Gilman's Point to Stella Point, we walked along the edge of the crater rim, providing a glimpse into the heart of the mountain. The view was truly astonishing, yet also somewhat intimidating. Thoughts crept into my mind about what might happen if one were to fall inside the crater.

Beyond Stella Point, I could see the immense Kilimanjaro glacier to my left, but my primary focus remained on reaching Uhuru Peak. The journey along the crater rim involved gentle ascents and descents, though at this altitude, everything unfolded in slow motion. It was eerily quiet, punctuated only by the sound of our breathing and the wind.

At Summit - Uhuru Peak

After nearly 2.5 hours, Uhuru Peak, standing at 5,895 meters, came into view, marked by its iconic summit sign. I couldn't quite grasp the reality of my accomplishment. It was an incredibly tough journey, even when compared to the Everest Base Camp route I tackled the previous year.

We are at the top of Kilimanjaro

But then, it hit me—I was here. I was standing on the rooftop of Africa, atop the highest freestanding mountain in the world. The date was etched in my memory: Wednesday, September 6, 2023, 10:15 a.m. I proudly proclaimed that I had successfully conquered Mount Kilimanjaro.

Cikgu Selva, retired teacher

I took a moment to savor the incredible view, the weather, and the thin air. We captured the moment with team photos, and it dawned on me that despite being a proud 53-year-old hiker, the real respect in our group went to Mr. Ramasamy, aged 67, and Cikgu Selva, a retired teacher at 60. Their age was a mere number, and their unwavering determination demonstrated that anything is possible with the right mindset.

Proud Malaysian

Climbing up is a choice, but climbing down is a necessity. It's perilous to linger at high altitudes for extended periods, and the guides consistently emphasized that it was time to begin our descent back to Gilman's Point and continue our hike towards Kibo Hut. Descending presented its own set of challenges, particularly for our knees. Unlike the zigzagging approach we used while ascending, the descent required a more direct route, and the previously slippery soil became our newfound friend.

Decent to Horombo

During the descent, I took advantage of the opportunity to appreciate the surroundings from the vantage point of 5,000 meters. It was truly astonishing to realize just how high we had ascended. I paused for a few pits stops to rest, and it took approximately 3.5 hours to return to Kibo Hut. By 2:15 am, I was inside the hut with Cikgu Selva, marking a grueling 14.5 hours of hiking. I needed to refuel, but I inexplicably lost my appetite—perhaps due to the overwhelming joy of our success, fatigue, or the effects of AMS. Regardless, I knew I had to conserve energy for the forthcoming descent to Horombo Hut, covering another 10 kilometers. I fervently hoped for a reserve of strength.

Magnificent View Climb down from Gilman Point

By around 4 pm, all our team members had returned to Kibo Hut. At precisely 4:30 pm, we commenced the descent to Horombo. I walked at a brisk pace, feeling the terrain slope downward. Regrettably, we began to lose daylight quickly, and darkness enveloped us. It was an unusual experience—walking in the African desert in the dark. My brain was too fatigued to fully register the novelty, as my singular focus was to reach Horombo, grab a quick meal, and rest inside my sleeping bag.

I arrived at Horombo around 9 pm, which meant I had been hiking for a staggering 21 hours. The only explanation for this newfound well of energy was sheer determination.

Decent down to Horombo, looking back at Kilimanjaro

I had a restful night's sleep, utterly fatigued but slumbering like a baby. At around 6:30 am, we were roused by a wake-up call accompanied by a steaming cup of coffee and the customary "washe-washe," providing warm water for our personal hygiene. We began the process of packing our belongings into our duffel bags before making our way to the breakfast area.

Following a hearty breakfast, we embarked on the homeward leg of our journey, tracing our steps back to Marangu Gates. As we approached the end of our adventure, a profound sense of accomplishment and satisfaction radiated through our group, each of us sporting broad smiles and full hearts. It was a journey we would carry with us for a lifetime.

With Pg Sulaiman and Mr Ravichandran - The Legend

Climbing the highest mountain in Africa was an incredible experience, shared with a new team of fellow enthusiasts I had the privilege of meeting. The camaraderie and friendships formed during such an adventure are truly remarkable. Trust me; even if you begin alone, you'll likely encounter an amazing team with shared passions, making new friends along the way.

"Climbing a Mountain isn't just reaching the top; It's also about the moment of Discovery, Challenges, Setbacks Exhaustion and Ultimate Triumph" - SirNoordin

I express my heartfelt gratitude to my new team, including Cikgu Selva Nathan aA/L Kulan Daivelu, Mr. Ramasamy, Dr. Sivan, Suhu, Sharon Ng, Pengiran Sulaiman, and our lead hiker, Mr. Ravichandran, a legend with four Mount Everest summits.

Wearing my official Patagonia jacket

A special thank you goes to my wife and family for their unwavering trust and support, despite the underlying concerns for my health and safety. I also extend my thanks to my #KoyokAdventureTeam, even though they couldn't join, their "bako" was a motivating factor for my success – “Tak de gambar kira tak sampai”, my UNN colleagues, and my friends around the world.

Adventure to the Thin Air of Africa - Part 1

SirNoordinAdventure - Kilimanjaro Route - YouTube Video


SirNoordin

Kilimanjaro Hakuna Matata 

September 2023

Adventure to the Thin Air of Africa - Kilimanjaro Part 1

Adventure to the Thin Air of Africa 
Kilimanjaro in September 2023

Part 1

Day 0 - 1 September 2023 
Bandar Seri Begawan - Kuala Lumpur - Addis Ababa - Kilimanjaro

In October 2022, I embarked on a remarkable journey to the Everest Base Camp (EBC), situated at a staggering altitude of 5,364 meters above sea level. This expedition was nothing short of epic, offering me the opportunity to witness the world's most majestic mountain, Mount Everest, in all its towering glory. The experience, however, was not without its share of challenges, chief among them being the struggle to breathe in the thin, high-altitude air. Nevertheless, the joy of success, attained despite the myriad obstacles encountered early in the expedition, was truly exhilarating.

Marangu Gate

I miss it!

Following the triumphant completion of the EBC expedition, I felt a strong desire to continue my exploration of the world's renowned mountains. It was then that I turned my attention to Africa's iconic Mount Kilimanjaro situated at 5,895 meters, knowns as the "Roof of Africa" and the highest freestanding mountain on Earth. Determined to make this adventure a reality, I researched various service providers and considered multiple option of routes – Marangu, Lemosho, Machame and few others.

Ultimately, I made the decision to entrust my Kilimanjaro expedition to Global Expedition Club, led by the distinguished Malaysian mountaineer, Mr. Ravichandran, who boasts an impressive four successful summits of Mount Everest. Their partnership with Tanzania-based Africa Joy Tours added another layer of confidence to my choice.

Kilimanjaro Airport

My training program was a rigorous one, centered around ascending the Sarang Helang hill near my home no less than five times per week (sometime twice a day) to bolster my endurance and enhance my physical strength, both of which were critical for the forthcoming expedition to an elevation of 5,895 meters. I also undertook a challenging in late July 2023 by summiting the majestic of Mount Kinabalu, which stands at a formidable height of 4,097 meters together with my officemate. This climbing gave me a valuable benchmark, allowing me to assess my physical and mental readiness for the even greater altitude I would face during my Kilimanjaro’s adventure.

My son wearing my ABC, EBC and Kilimanjaro T-shirt

The reflection analysis of my previous Everest Base Camp expedition, during which I faced with bone-chilling temperatures plummeting to as low as -15 degrees Celsius in the thin mountain air, aided me in planning and assembling the right combination of clothing layers for my next high-altitude journey.

The long-awaited day has come, it is the time to start the Adventure to the Thin Air of Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro.

Thanks for an amazing support

The expedition from Bandar Sri Begawan in Brunei to Kuala Lumpur, via Royal Brunei Airlines, represents just the initial leg of the journey. From Kuala Lumpur, the path continues, connecting to Kilimanjaro via Singapore and Addis Ababa through Ethiopian Airlines. When considering the entirety of the journey, from my doorstep to the destination, it amounts to a formidable duration of approximately 38 hours. Really exhausted, this is something I did not considered in my preparation – jetlag!

We stayed at Panama Garden Resort in Moshi.

 

Day 1 - September 3, 2023 (Sunday)
Marangu Gate to Mandara Hut, Elevation: 2700 meters

After enjoying breakfast, we made our way to Marangu Gate for registration and met our dedicated support team. Our team consisted of four guides, led by the chief, a team of porters, and a few others, totaling 22 members in all. Following introductions and a briefing, we commenced our journey at 12:06 PM, venturing into the African jungle. The trail primarily involved walking and didn't require significant climbing. This particular route is famously known as the "Coca-Cola route," owing to the historical practice of rangers selling soft drinks at huts along the way.

I hiked with Global Expedition Club (GEC)

Throughout the trek, our guide frequently emphasized the Swahili phrase "pole pole," which means "slowly," reminding us not to rush and to conserve our energy. One valuable lesson I learned from Mr. Ravichandran, our lead hiker, also known as the "Everest man," is that conquering mountains is all about efficiently managing your energy.

We spent approximately four hours leisurely covering a distance of 9.4 kilometers before reaching our destination, Mandara Hut, which is nestled at an elevation of 3727 meters.

Lead Guide Mr. Agustine

We took a brief tea break to warm up before continuing our hike to Maundi Crater for an acclimatization trek of about 2.5 kilometers, lasting approximately an hour. This practice is crucial in preventing Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), as it involves ascending to a higher point and then descending to sleep at a lower altitude.

Maundi Crater is an extinct, small-sized depression formed as a result of past volcanic activity on Mount Kilimanjaro, close to Mandara Hut. It provides awe-inspiring vistas of the towering mountains, offering an aerial perspective of the slopes and even a glimpse of the Kenyan border.

Mandara Hut

We enjoyed our dinner in the communal dining area, which was served by our service provider. Our meal consisted of delicious white rice, vegetable curry, and perfectly prepared freshwater fish.

Maundi Crater for Acclimation Hike

Following our meal, our guides led a reflective briefing on our earlier hike and discussed the plans for the following day. The temperature at the hut hovered around 14°C, creating a cool and comfortable atmosphere for our evening.

Day 2 - September 4, 2023 (Monday)
Mandara Hut to Horombo Hut, Elevation: 3700 meters

At 6:30 am, we awoke to the welcoming aroma of hot coffee served in our rooms, along with warm water for our morning wash, playfully referred to as "washe washe." We efficiently packed our duffle bags and left them in our rooms, ready to convene for breakfast in the common area. Despite the cold temperature, the sun shone brightly, creating a delightful atmosphere.

Hiking to Horombo

Following a brief morning briefing, we resumed our journey at 8:30 am, heading towards Horombo Hut, positioned at an elevation of 3700 meters. The route began with the enchanting rainforest of Kilimanjaro, gradually transitioning into sparser, lower alpine landscapes. Along the way, we were treated to our first glimpses of the majestic Kilimanjaro.

Trail to Horombo

As we continued along the trail, we were treated to breathtaking views of the low alpine landscapes with mountains flanking both sides of our path. Among the interesting stories we heard was one about Barkulli Mountain (I hope I'm pronouncing it correctly). Local lore has it that this holy mountain holds a special significance for the community, as it's believed to be a place where locals make wishes to the gods for rain or the removal of diseases. It's a testament to the deep cultural connections that exist between the people of the region and their natural surroundings.

As we neared Horombo Hut, we were greeted by the presence of majestic lobelias, although their numbers were somewhat diminished due to a recent forest fire that had swept through the area. The sight of these unique plants added to the sense of wonder and adventure that surrounded our journey.

Horombo 3720m elevation

The hike from Mandara to Horombo Hut was a significant leg of our trek, covering a distance of 13 km and taking us roughly 6 hours and 40 minutes to traverse. It was a challenging yet rewarding trek, as we steadily gained elevation and became more immersed in the breathtaking landscape. Upon reaching Horombo Camp, we found ourselves enveloped in mist, with the temperature hovering around 8°C. After leaving our duffle bags in the hut, we embarked on a climb of around 150 meters in elevation for our acclimatization session before returning to camp for dinner.

Acclimatization Hike at Horombo

Some of our group members began to display early symptoms of Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS), one of which is a decreased appetite. However, drawing from my experience during last year's Everest Base Camp (EBC) hike, I understood the importance of maintaining a good appetite. So, despite the symptoms, I made a conscious effort to consume my meal, as I knew that having ample energy reserves was crucial in high-altitude environments like these.

The temperature at Horombo Camp hovered around 8°C, and the chill penetrated deep into our bones, reminding us of the high-altitude environment we were in. The cold air was invigorating yet bone-chilling, making it essential to bundle up and stay warm.

Stunning Evening at Horombo

During dinner, we received the customary briefing on our plans for the following day. Given that we were approaching an elevation of 3,700 meters, we were informed that our pace would slow down significantly as we made our way towards Kibo Hut. This cautious approach was necessary to ensure our bodies had enough time to acclimatize to the increasingly thin air and reduce the risk of altitude-related issues as we continued our ascent toward the summit of Kilimanjaro.

Continue Reading Part 2 here, 
Adventure to the Thin Air of Africa - Part 2

SirNoordinAdventure - Kilimanjaro Route  - YouTube Video 


SirNoordin

Kilimanjaro Hakuna Matata 

September 2023