Adventure to the Thin Air of Africa
Kilimanjaro in September 2023
Part 1
Day 0 - 1 September 2023
Bandar Seri Begawan - Kuala Lumpur - Addis Ababa - Kilimanjaro
In October 2022, I embarked on a remarkable journey to the Everest Base Camp (EBC), situated at a staggering altitude of 5,364 meters above sea level. This expedition was nothing short of epic, offering me the opportunity to witness the world's most majestic mountain, Mount Everest, in all its towering glory. The experience, however, was not without its share of challenges, chief among them being the struggle to breathe in the thin, high-altitude air. Nevertheless, the joy of success, attained despite the myriad obstacles encountered early in the expedition, was truly exhilarating.
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| Marangu Gate |
I miss it!
Ultimately, I made the decision
to entrust my Kilimanjaro expedition to Global Expedition Club, led by the
distinguished Malaysian mountaineer, Mr. Ravichandran, who boasts an impressive
four successful summits of Mount Everest. Their partnership with Tanzania-based
Africa Joy Tours added another layer of confidence to my choice.
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| Kilimanjaro Airport |
My training program was a rigorous one, centered around ascending the Sarang Helang hill near my home no less than five times per week (sometime twice a day) to bolster my endurance and enhance my physical strength, both of which were critical for the forthcoming expedition to an elevation of 5,895 meters. I also undertook a challenging in late July 2023 by summiting the majestic of Mount Kinabalu, which stands at a formidable height of 4,097 meters together with my officemate. This climbing gave me a valuable benchmark, allowing me to assess my physical and mental readiness for the even greater altitude I would face during my Kilimanjaro’s adventure.
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| My son wearing my ABC, EBC and Kilimanjaro T-shirt |
The reflection analysis of my previous Everest Base Camp expedition, during which I faced with bone-chilling temperatures plummeting to as low as -15 degrees Celsius in the thin mountain air, aided me in planning and assembling the right combination of clothing layers for my next high-altitude journey.
The long-awaited day has come, it
is the time to start the Adventure to the Thin Air of Africa, Mount
Kilimanjaro.
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| Thanks for an amazing support |
The expedition from Bandar Sri
Begawan in Brunei to Kuala Lumpur, via Royal Brunei Airlines, represents just
the initial leg of the journey. From Kuala Lumpur, the path continues,
connecting to Kilimanjaro via Singapore and Addis Ababa through Ethiopian
Airlines. When considering the entirety of the journey, from my doorstep to the
destination, it amounts to a formidable duration of approximately 38 hours.
Really exhausted, this is something I did not considered in my preparation –
jetlag!
We stayed at Panama Garden Resort
in Moshi.
Day 1 - September 3, 2023
(Sunday)
Marangu Gate to Mandara Hut,
Elevation: 2700 meters
After enjoying breakfast, we made
our way to Marangu Gate for registration and met our dedicated support team.
Our team consisted of four guides, led by the chief, a team of porters, and a
few others, totaling 22 members in all. Following introductions and a briefing,
we commenced our journey at 12:06 PM, venturing into the African jungle. The
trail primarily involved walking and didn't require significant climbing. This
particular route is famously known as the "Coca-Cola route," owing to
the historical practice of rangers selling soft drinks at huts along the way.
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| I hiked with Global Expedition Club (GEC) |
Throughout the trek, our guide
frequently emphasized the Swahili phrase "pole pole," which means
"slowly," reminding us not to rush and to conserve our energy. One
valuable lesson I learned from Mr. Ravichandran, our lead hiker, also known as
the "Everest man," is that conquering mountains is all about
efficiently managing your energy.
We spent approximately four hours leisurely covering a distance of 9.4 kilometers before reaching our destination, Mandara Hut, which is nestled at an elevation of 3727 meters.
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| Lead Guide Mr. Agustine |
We took a brief tea break to warm
up before continuing our hike to Maundi Crater for an acclimatization trek of
about 2.5 kilometers, lasting approximately an hour. This practice is crucial
in preventing Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), as it involves ascending to a
higher point and then descending to sleep at a lower altitude.
Maundi Crater is an extinct,
small-sized depression formed as a result of past volcanic activity on Mount
Kilimanjaro, close to Mandara Hut. It provides awe-inspiring vistas of the
towering mountains, offering an aerial perspective of the slopes and even a
glimpse of the Kenyan border.
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| Mandara Hut |
We enjoyed our dinner in the
communal dining area, which was served by our service provider. Our meal
consisted of delicious white rice, vegetable curry, and perfectly prepared freshwater
fish.
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| Maundi Crater for Acclimation Hike |
Following our meal, our guides
led a reflective briefing on our earlier hike and discussed the plans for the
following day. The temperature at the hut hovered around 14°C, creating a cool
and comfortable atmosphere for our evening.
Day 2 - September 4, 2023
(Monday)
Mandara Hut to Horombo Hut,
Elevation: 3700 meters
At 6:30 am, we awoke to the
welcoming aroma of hot coffee served in our rooms, along with warm water for
our morning wash, playfully referred to as "washe washe." We
efficiently packed our duffle bags and left them in our rooms, ready to convene
for breakfast in the common area. Despite the cold temperature, the sun shone
brightly, creating a delightful atmosphere.
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| Hiking to Horombo |
Following a brief morning
briefing, we resumed our journey at 8:30 am, heading towards Horombo Hut,
positioned at an elevation of 3700 meters. The route began with the enchanting
rainforest of Kilimanjaro, gradually transitioning into sparser, lower alpine
landscapes. Along the way, we were treated to our first glimpses of the
majestic Kilimanjaro.
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| Trail to Horombo |
As we continued along the trail, we were treated to breathtaking views of the low alpine landscapes with mountains flanking both sides of our path. Among the interesting stories we heard was one about Barkulli Mountain (I hope I'm pronouncing it correctly). Local lore has it that this holy mountain holds a special significance for the community, as it's believed to be a place where locals make wishes to the gods for rain or the removal of diseases. It's a testament to the deep cultural connections that exist between the people of the region and their natural surroundings.
As we neared Horombo Hut, we were
greeted by the presence of majestic lobelias, although their numbers were
somewhat diminished due to a recent forest fire that had swept through the
area. The sight of these unique plants added to the sense of wonder and
adventure that surrounded our journey.
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| Horombo 3720m elevation |
The hike from Mandara to Horombo
Hut was a significant leg of our trek, covering a distance of 13 km and taking
us roughly 6 hours and 40 minutes to traverse. It was a challenging yet
rewarding trek, as we steadily gained elevation and became more immersed in the
breathtaking landscape. Upon reaching Horombo Camp, we found ourselves
enveloped in mist, with the temperature hovering around 8°C. After leaving our
duffle bags in the hut, we embarked on a climb of around 150 meters in
elevation for our acclimatization session before returning to camp for dinner.
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| Acclimatization Hike at Horombo |
Some of our group members began
to display early symptoms of Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS), one of which is
a decreased appetite. However, drawing from my experience during last year's
Everest Base Camp (EBC) hike, I understood the importance of maintaining a good
appetite. So, despite the symptoms, I made a conscious effort to consume my
meal, as I knew that having ample energy reserves was crucial in high-altitude
environments like these.
The temperature at Horombo Camp
hovered around 8°C, and the chill penetrated deep into our bones, reminding us
of the high-altitude environment we were in. The cold air was invigorating yet
bone-chilling, making it essential to bundle up and stay warm.
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| Stunning Evening at Horombo |
During dinner, we received the customary briefing on our plans for the following day. Given that we were approaching an elevation of 3,700 meters, we were informed that our pace would slow down significantly as we made our way towards Kibo Hut. This cautious approach was necessary to ensure our bodies had enough time to acclimatize to the increasingly thin air and reduce the risk of altitude-related issues as we continued our ascent toward the summit of Kilimanjaro.
Adventure to the Thin Air of Africa - Part 2
SirNoordin
