Day 1: Back in Kathmandu
Allow me to share the captivating tale of my journey to Everest Base Camp in October 2022. This decision was a blend of eagerness and apprehension, as I embarked on the epic Everest Base Camp Expedition in Nepal. The unknown lay ahead, and uncertainty shrouded what awaited me. Stories of high altitudes, bone-chilling cold (dropping to -16°C), relentless snowfall, and the looming threat of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) echoed in my mind. This sickness was a formidable adversary, unaffected by one's physical fitness level.
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| Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu |
The dream of treading the path to Everest Base Camp, standing in the presence of the world's tallest peak, had captivated me for years. Mount Everest towered at an astonishing 8,848 meters, accompanied by the imposing silhouette of Mount Lhotse at 8,516 meters and the regal charm of Mount Ama Dablam at 6,812 meters. These remarkable sentinels, accompanied by their equally breathtaking companions, set the stage for an awe-inspiring adventure of a lifetime.
This expedition marked the culmination of a long-standing aspiration, a dream woven into the very fabric of my being. It was destined to be an exceptional chapter in the story of my life.
And so, the journey commenced with a flight from Kuala Lumpur to Kathmandu, spanning approximately 4.5 hours. The skies were kind, and the flight was smooth. The onboard breakfast presented a tantalizing "Nasi Lemak Sambal Udang," a feast for the eyes. However, fate took a twist; the night before my flight was marred by a stomach flu virus that left me defenseless. Confidence waned, as if my mental and physical preparations were now stranded. The decision to proceed or abandon the expedition hung in the balance, a dilemma that tugged at my heartstrings.
Consulting with Dr. Yusri, my trusted medical guide, a plan was formulated. Rest was prescribed before the impending hike, a chance to mend and heal. Two days seemed a suitable duration to ready myself for the trekking phase. Thus began the challenging journey of gradual recovery. My beloved "nasi lemak" had to be set aside, replaced by cautious, incremental meals. Each bite carried the weight of determination, a reminder of the epic journey that lay ahead.
The landing at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu was a sort of homecoming, a reunion with a place that held cherished memories. It felt like déjà vu, as the echoes of my previous visit in September 2019 for the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) trek reverberated. Nepal's allure lay not only in its lofty mountains but also in the exquisite trails that beckoned adventurers. The yearning to return was already taking root.
The Sacred Apartment near Thamel Road became my sanctuary, a familiar abode. From here, I ventured out to discover a slice of heaven on a plate – a mouthwatering, halal mutton biryani. This culinary adventure was complemented by the pursuit of hiking gear, as final preparations took shape.
Shafqat Halal Food provided a haven for my taste buds, where a delectable mutton biryani awaited. Nourishment came at a cost of Npr400 for a portion that exceeded expectations. Familiar faces of fellow Malaysians adorned the restaurant, evidence of a shared sentiment for this culinary treasure.
As dusk fell, a transformative moment arrived – a final briefing by Mr. Keshab of Index Adventures. He painted a vivid picture of the path from Lukla to EBC, shedding light on the delicate dance with Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Armed with knowledge, I solidified my commitment with a balance payment of USD 1,060. In return, I received an Index Adventure duffle bag and a sleeping bag. The task of repacking felt like rearranging puzzle pieces, with each item vying for its place within the 10 kg limit set for the Lukla flight. The weight of choice pressed upon me, each decision etched with the gravity of the journey.
As night descended, I bid farewell to the world, embracing the anticipation of the morrow. The journey was now ingrained in my being, a tapestry of emotions, challenges, and dreams woven together beneath the starlit sky. "Good night," I whispered to the universe, ready to rest before the epic ascent.
Day 2:Unpredictable Weather Challenge
I'm exhilarated by the prospect of our journey this morning to the world's most perilous airport, nestled atop a mountain at a staggering 2,860 meters above sea level, surrounded by the grandeur of the Himalayas. The runway is astonishingly short, spanning only about 500 meters between a cliff and the mountain's edge. Upon touchdown, we'll embark on a 12-day hike, braving extreme weather and high altitudes in the Himalayas – an experience my body has yet to encounter. My highest point reached before was 4,130 meters at Annapurna Base Camp in September 2019. The challenges that lie ahead are formidable, yet I am resolute in maintaining a positive outlook throughout this expedition.
We arose early at 3:30 a.m., ensuring all last-minute preparations were in order. Perhaps our excitement got the better of us as we eagerly set out to begin our trek to Everest Base Camp. This adventure is a dream come true, a goal we've eagerly anticipated for three long years, hindered by the delays brought on by the COVID-19 pandemic.
By 5:30 a.m., we were en route to Tribhuvan Airport for our Lukla check-in. Our enthusiasm was palpable, although it partly masked our underlying nervousness. However, after checking in, we received news that our flight was delayed due to unfavorable weather conditions in Lukla. Patiently, we waited for five hours, and then suddenly, we were hastily ushered onto the flight. This comes as no surprise; flight disruptions are a common occurrence due to the unpredictable mountain weather. We find ourselves at the mercy of these conditions, earnestly hoping for an improvement.
SITA Airlines Flight 601, scheduled for 10:30 a.m., presented us with a small, green double-turbine aircraft, poised to carry us into the Himalayan expanse. We were all aboard, though another hour's wait was necessary before our official departure for Lukla. About 20 minutes into the flight, we learned that Lukla Airport remained inaccessible due to adverse weather, leading to a diversion to Phaplu Airport. From Phaplu, it's merely a brief seven-minute journey to reach Lukla Airport – not too far, at least.
Safely landing at Phaplu Airport, situated at an altitude of 2,496 meters, we awaited further instructions from 11:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. Eventually, we received the unfortunate news that the weather was deteriorating, necessitating our stay in Phaplu village. This situation was simply the reality we faced.
Another unforeseen challenge that arose was the urgent need for accommodation in this unplanned situation. After a few attempts, we managed to secure a chalet located not far from the airport, providing us with a place to stay for the night. In this aspect, luck was on our side, as the cost of this accommodation was generously covered by Index Adventure.
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| Bad weather - overnight in Phaplu |
Amid the unpredictability of the mountain weather and the ever-changing plans, finding a safe and comfortable place to stay became a priority. The chalet we were fortunate to secure wasn't just a shelter; it became a sanctuary where we could regroup, recharge, and prepare ourselves for the journey ahead. The warm lights, cozy interiors, and the camaraderie of fellow hikers who had also found refuge there, added a sense of community to an otherwise uncertain situation.
The fact that Index Adventure covered the accommodation cost underscored their commitment to the well-being of their trekkers. It was a gesture that spoke volumes about their professionalism and dedication to ensuring a smooth and memorable experience for each participant.
As we settled into the chalet for the night, the mountain weather raged on outside. The wind howled, and the occasional sound of rain against the windows reminded us of the unpredictable environment we were about to venture into. Despite the challenges and deviations from our original plan, there was a sense of camaraderie among our group – a shared understanding that this was all part of the adventure. We exchanged stories and shared our aspirations for the journey ahead, finding solace in the fact that we were all in this together.
This unexpected turn of events added an element of spontaneity to our expedition. It was a reminder that no matter how meticulously we plan, nature remains an uncontrollable force, and adaptability is key. The experience also reinforced the importance of having a reliable and supportive team, like Index Adventure, to navigate such situations with professionalism and care.
During dinner, we began interacting with locals and fellow hikers stranded alongside us. Some of these hikers had been marooned for a staggering 4 to 5 days. It came to light that roughly 2,000 hikers were similarly stranded at Ramachep Airport, unable to proceed to Lukla. With this knowledge, we realized that we needed to actively seek solutions for the coming days, rather than waiting for a miracle to unfold.
As we settled in for the night, I couldn't help but reflect on the twists and turns that had already marked the beginning of this journey. While challenges were bound to arise, it was the way we faced them that would ultimately define our experience. With a mixture of gratitude, anticipation, and a touch of apprehension, I drifted off to sleep, knowing that the following days would hold more surprises, but also more opportunities for growth, connection, and discovery.
Day 3: Navigating Stranded Delays
Early in the morning, following a hearty breakfast of Tibetan Bread with fried egg and coffee, our hopes were still fixed on the possibility of flying to Lukla. One day had already been lost to the delay, and our initial plan to reach Namche Bazaar by the end of the day seemed distant. We found ourselves in a state of limbo, eager to progress but facing the uncertainty of our situation.
Post-breakfast, we convened for a brief meeting to discuss the available options. By 11 a.m., if no news arrived, we decided that we would take matters into our own hands and begin planning an alternative route, one that would lead us to Kharikola. It was a tough decision to make, to veer from our intended path, but our determination to move forward was unwavering.
Then, at around 11:30 a.m., a glimmer of hope emerged. Our agent informed us that a helicopter had been arranged, with destinations including Lukla, Phakding, or Namche Bazaar. This news injected a renewed sense of purpose and urgency. The lost time could potentially be regained, thanks to this unexpected turn of events. As we awaited the arrival of the helicopter, however, we couldn't help but notice the mountain weather shifting once again. Fog rolled in, obscuring visibility and shrouding Phaplu in an eerie mist. Considering these conditions, we began to doubt whether the helicopter would even be able to make it to us, let alone venture towards Lukla. The locals shared that this weather pattern had persisted for the past two weeks, dimming our hopes for any quick improvement.
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| Phaplu airport in the middle of nowhere |
Reality set in. The mountain, as mighty and majestic as it was, commanded the terms. Flying to either Lukla or any other destination was simply not feasible in such adverse conditions. The mountain dictated our journey, and we had no choice but to abide by its rules.
Consequently, we found ourselves stranded in Phaplu for yet another night. This setback dealt a blow to our motivation; it was disheartening, to say the least. The guide assigned to us remained steadfast in his hope that tomorrow would bring better conditions. However, the weather forecast contradicted his optimism. Waiting was becoming a silent assailant on our motivation, eroding it gradually.
In the face of these challenges, we recognized that a difficult decision had to be made. Regardless of its outcome, action was imperative. Thus, we resolved that the next day, at 4:00 a.m., we would embark on a journey to Kharikola. Our assigned guide managed to arrange a 4x4 jeep to facilitate this leg of the trip. The prospect of an off-road journey spanning 5 to 6 hours rejuvenated our spirits; having a concrete plan in place rekindled our motivation.
As the day drew to a close, we retreated to our rooms. Gathering together, we engaged in prayers, seeking blessings for the journey that lay ahead. Aware of the implications of our decision, we acknowledged that opting for the Kharikola route would inevitably add two additional days to our journey, setting us four days behind schedule.
In the midst of swirling uncertainty, a singular clarity emerged – our focal point had to shift. "Let's make reaching Everest Base Camp our primary goal; we can strategize about our journey home afterward," we concurred. This shift in perspective marked a pivotal moment in our journey, encapsulating a mindset that embraced adaptability and resilience – qualities that had quickly evolved into our steadfast companions on this remarkable expedition.
The decision to recalibrate our focus was a testament to the indomitable spirit that had brought us this far. It symbolized our commitment to embracing the unpredictable nature of the mountains and their weather, and adapting our plans accordingly. By prioritizing the attainment of Everest Base Camp, we acknowledged that our path might not be straightforward, that unforeseen obstacles might arise, but we were resolute in our determination to persist.
The mountain environment had underscored the necessity of flexibility. It taught us that the journey itself held intrinsic value, independent of the final destination. Each step we took, regardless of the direction, was an integral part of the narrative we were crafting. This mentality propelled us forward, even in the face of setbacks and delays.
As we embraced the role of adaptability in our expedition, we found ourselves guided by a sense of resilience that was more than just a response to challenges. It was a proactive approach, an understanding that the essence of an adventure lies in its unpredictability. Every twist and turn became an opportunity to showcase our ability to rise above adversity, to thrive in the face of the unknown.
Our journey had evolved into a unique tapestry woven from patience, courage, and a willingness to embrace the unexpected. It was no longer just about reaching a geographical destination; it had become a profound exploration of our own capacities. The mental and emotional terrain we traversed mirrored the physical landscape, both demanding an open heart and an adaptable mindset.
With the resolve to prioritize Everest Base Camp, we cast aside the shackles of frustration and disappointment that threatened to hold us back. Instead, we nurtured a sense of anticipation, acknowledging that the path we had chosen was paved with challenges that would ultimately enrich our experience. Our journey had evolved into a captivating story of tenacity, a testament to the human spirit's ability to thrive amidst adversity.
And so, as we settled into our rooms that night, we carried with us the weight of our collective decision. We knew that by embracing adaptability and resilience, we had found a way to harness the power of the mountains and their unpredictability. As the stars above Phaplu twinkled in the clear night sky, we held on to the promise of tomorrow's new beginnings – a day that would see us journey towards Kharikola, a step closer to the towering glory of Everest, and a testament to the strength that lay within us all. "It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves"
Good night! To be continue.
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