Friday, November 11, 2022

My Epic Journey to Everest BC Part 5 : Dingboche - Lobuche - Gorak Shep - Everest BC

 

Magic is believing in yourself and make it happen


DAY -10

16 October 2022 Sunday, Dingboche to Lobuche (4,940m)

9.5 km hiking for 7 hours with total ascent of 700 meter 

#KoyokAdventureTeam - Everest BC

We were lucky starting from Namche until today, spectacular views - the skies are magnificent blue without a single cloud at sight. The weather was very cold, like yesterday I started my day equipped with my down jacket inside my windbreaker jacket and glove while hiking. It was cold! After breakfast, we headed to the hills behind the Teahouse and climbed up for a few hundred meters  - really testing your stamina and breathing. 

Above the tree line

Once we have ascended, a rewarding spectacular 360 degree view of mountain peaks is really jaw-dropping, amazing and beautiful. However, I can't take many photos - it's too cold for me to click my Samsung S21 handphone and/ or Go-Pro. I do feel regret but yet it is more important to take the photo at Everest BC right? Hihihi… My team motto is “if no photo, means you are not there”

Affizan, Nazim, Faiz, Amir, Romme, Yukhairi & me

Glad that my other friends managed to take my photos along the trail. Thanks #KoyokAdventureTeam - we always hike together and teamwork is excellent! 

Feel alive even tho short breathe

I felt that today's hike was not as bad as yesterday's hike, however the altitude seriously impacted me - felt weird, at some point felt unwell and disorientated at certain points.  Every step is a literal struggle here and I had to breathe into depth to maximum capacity. We passed through the Dukla Pass and saw the memorials stone covered by prayer flags of the climbers who have perished on mount Everest. I kept telling myself it was just another 5 minutes away or sometime behind those hills, a typical word by hiker. Don’t trust it but it is surely workable.

Strong porter-man

Finally we arrived at New EBC Guest House, Lobuche for a night. To be honest, I can’t remember much on this part of the journey. Not having many pictures (due to cold weather) made it difficult for me to recall what happened here. I can’t remember what the Teahouse looks like.  

Every man should climb a mountain once in his life

Oh, the night at Lobuche is freezing cold, hard to sleep, keep wake-up, frequently feel thirsty and the water is cold - drinking cold water is also painful for the throat. Lesson learned - next time I need to bring the thermos bottle to keep the water warm.  

Bako-Bako Session


DAY -11

17 October 2022 Monday, Lobuche to Gorak Shep (5,164m) to Everest BC (5,364m)

5.2 km hiking for 5 hours with total ascent of 70 meter to Gorak Shep


It was really a long cold night! During breakfast, we had an important meeting as one of our team members (and maybe) myself was not quite fit to continue the journey. We discussed and evaluated the situation, AMS is not a joke! One of our hiker friends has a knee problem and AMS at the same time. The best possible option was for him to go down to a lower altitude to recover - Periche

High motivation - today is the day

After breakfast, he made his decision to go down due to health and safety reasons. Therefore, we proceed our journey for the next 3 - 4 hours to Gorak Shep. This is the last stop before Everest BC. The trail was not much different compared to Lobuche - a dusty and rocky trail surrounded by white mountain’s peak. However the trail was a bit flat, not much up and down - that’s really helpful.  Hope we can reach by lunch time, quite bite and continue all the way to Everest BC. 

So near yet so far

After 3.5 hours hiking, at the end of the hills  we saw a small settlement that sat on the edge of a frozen lakebed covered with sand.  The elevation was 5,168 meters. This is the last point for hikers to stay overnight as typically our trekking permit does not allow us to camp at Everest BC. We learned that you need another special permit to camp at Everest BC - typically for mount Everest climbers. 

I called this broken ankle trail 

We walked down the hill to the Teahouse called Everest Inn. We took a quick lunch and headed straight to Everest BC. We were informed to be extra careful due to the rocky trail and need to be back at Gorak Shep before dark. After eleven days on this journey, I was really exhausted but super excited - the next 2 hours maximum, I will be at Everest Base Camp. 


The final attack to Everest BC at 5,364 meters, 6.3 km and 4.5 hours from/to Gorak Shep and total ascent 222m.

Golden peak in the evening

I can’t go more than twenty or thirty steps without resting for a while. Need to take a short rest before continuing again! At this point of time, my mind keeps pushing my body to continue walking with thousands of motivations and reasons why we do this in the first place. Sometimes I just stare at the mountain peaks - adore their majestic height, gasp for air and push my strength to get back on my feet. 

I am not lost, EBC is that way

According to our guide, it should take around 1.5 to 2 hours to reach Everest BC, but I took nearly 3 hours to hike there. I don't know why I was so weak despite the fact that I have done more than a year training for this expedition. After I reached Kathmandu, I was confirmed positive Covid19 - that is the reason why I got sick at Deboche and since then I was really weak but mentally I am not easily give-up. Ha ha ha even I told myself, if you want to die, die up there. I don’t really mean it, but to motivate myself that I can definitely reach my goal here. 


Being the person who spent the entire life near the Equatorial, we are not used to cold weather. I think today is the coldest temperature that I have experienced in my entire life around - 16C.  As long as we keep walking, we are fine but the moment we stop to rest, it bite us very fast. Just imagine, you are so tired, need a short break but yet too cold - really a mental warrior game! At this moment I don’t really care, my goal is clear - reach Everest BC first, the rest we face later! 

Congrats to Affizan


Today is the moment that I have been waiting for years and embarked on this expedition for the past 11 days. The rocky trail was the last challenge that we needed to get through - I called the ankle breaker trail. One mistake, you might break your ankle or even your leg. The trail up and down on the unstable stones makes it scary to make stupid mistakes. Eventually I can see Everest BC from far away even 45 minutes before on the right hand side, so near but yet so far. We needed to descend down from the higher valley to the rocky sides at sloop before climbing back to Everest BC. 

Congrats to Faiz 

Almost cried when I realized my journey had finally come to the end. Continued hiking slowly and surely - the famous Khumbu Icefall came to view. Everest BC is within reach but yet I need to be careful putting my step on the rocky trails. 

Err Proud to myself

I have successfully reached Everest BC with a big smile on my face on 17 October 2022 3.45 p.m. Congratulations to Romme, Nazim Salleh, Amir Hamzah, Affizan and Faiz Amar - the #KoyokAdventureTeam. Everest BC is marked with piles of stones, prayer flags and written “Everest Base Camp” with the elevation mark. Suddenly  all the tiredness and struggle just went away like a wind. I felt so motivated, proud and accomplished even though some part of me still does not believe I am here at Everest. This is the highest point on earth that I ever stand on. It is the magic of the Himalayas.  

Congrats to Amir Hamzah 

For the last 11 days we have trekked through the most amazing and intimidating landscapes around the Himalayas with additional challenges of stranded, unplanned route with additional 35 km hiked, the dark sky & rain, landslides and many other unpleasant news early in the expedition. I was sick at Deboche (later found positive Covid19), dehydrated and all sorts of mild symptoms of AMS really make this journey tougher. No pain no gain! Sometimes I don’t believe that I have reached Everest BC - it is Magic! 


Congrats to Nazim

Really piss-off with some people who had vandalized the Everest BC stones with their names. No brainer! For others, please do not vandalize nature. 

For UNN and Negara Brunei

The first part of reaching Everest BC was successfully completed and the second part was to walk back to Gorak Shep. When we hiked to Everest BC we took nearly 3 hours and the time now is 4.30 p.m. We have around 1 hour and 15 minutes before the sunset, which means we need to walk faster before dark or face the freezing cold (-20C). I worried about the freezing cold, so I walked fast like flying on the rocky trail back to Gorak Shep in just 1.5 hours. 


We entered the Teahouse and went straight to dining areas - felt a bit warm with a centralized heater with quite a number of hikers inside. I ordered my dinner - Egg Fried Rice with black tea, unfortunately I don’t have an appetite to enjoy my meal even though I felt very hungry. I can see some of my friends looked very exhausted. It is really an altitude challenge that causes an uncomfortable situation. Not a surprise as we were at above 5,300 meters altitude.   

Mission accomplished

It is another freezing cold and long night! It is hard to breathe normally with this kind of temperature. I put on layer after layer of thermal, fleece jacket, down feather and wind breaker jacket to get through the night. I do not know how many times I woke in the middle of the night and felt thirsty but it was hard to drink the freezing cold water. It is a nightmare!


Somehow,  I don’t really care as I have reached Everest BC, now is time to think about how to go home. Remember we were delayed for 4 days and there is no way we can go to make up the lost time. It is time to fly - let's think about it tomorrow’s morning.

 


Everest BC is a dream come true

DAY -12

18 October 2022 Tuesday, Gorak Shep to Pheriche (4,371m) to Lukla (2,860m) 

1st lag to Periche

The night before we can’t celebrate our Everest BC success as everyone is really exhausted. At 6 in the morning, I went down to the dining areas and hoped the heater could help to reduce the cold. Unfortunately, they are not put on fire.  Quite a number of hikers inside the dining area, I think they also have the same intention. I ordered a hot coffee and ate my biscuit.  

Helipad

I saw a few hikers just entered the dining area, they looked freezing. The water bottle that they carried turned to ice. I can imagine how cold it is at the top of Kalapathar right now. Then Amir Hamzah came in with a trekking stick - I thought that he just completed Kalapathar hill 5,550 meters this morning. Ha ha ha he just came from his room, like me looking for coffee at a warm place. Congrats to Nazim Salleh and Romme for making it to the peak of Kalapathar. 

I saw this pilot in Discovery Everest Rescue

During breakfast we were advised to take the helicopter back to Lukla due to time constraints. Our ticket flight from Lukla to Ramachep is scheduled tomorrow 19 October 2022 7 a.m. Therefore we need to be at Lukla by the end of today. We preferred to hike down, unfortunately the time is not on our side. We were brief to standby at the helicopter pad at the top of the hills near the teahouse. Due to the altitude the helicopter will take three persons at the time to Periche. And from Periche, the helicopter will take five at the same time to Lukla airport. This cost USD500. 

Freezing cold -16C

By 10.30 a.m. most of us were at Periche and met the other friend who had reached Periche a day earlier. Periche 4,371 m is a village above the Tsola River and is a popular stop for the trekkers. 


Finally we flew in two helicopters back to Lukla and this was the best heli-rides in my life. The magnificence of the mountains is breathtaking and the amazing journey that we had away from the world that we know makes it an epic adventure for us. 

Back to Lukla airport

Thank you to all my hiking buddies, the #KoyokAdventureTeam - Affizan Rahman, Amir Hamzah, Faiz Amar, Nazim Salleh, Romme, Yukhairi SingaUtara and Dr Paul Cawte. We have hiked a few mountains together as an amazing team. 

Thanks to Dr. Mohd Yusni Mohd Yasin, UNI Clinics Sg Hanching, BSB for medical consultation before, during and after the expedition. 

My UNN colleagues - Uwe Beydemuller (always follow up on my situation), Adi Rani & others who are also praying for my success. 

All my friends and family members around the world who followed my Epic Journey and prayer for our success.

For the special one - my lovely & beautiful wife Zazah Chomel who is continuous gave motivation and wonderful support in my life. Trust that if no news is a good news!


My Epic Journey to Everest BC Part 4: Namche - Deboche - Dingboche

 

Every mountain top is within reach if you just keep climbing


DAY -8

14 October 2022 Friday, Namche to Tengboche (3,860m) to Deboche (3,820m) 

We hiked 12.5 km, 8 hours with a total ascent of 1,100 meters and got impacted by mild symptoms of AMS. 

Tengboche


I woke up about quite early today, maybe we had a good rest yesterday - felt very fresh to continue the journey to Tengboche. As usual, the dining room was full with hikers preparing for the day. I don’t know what to have for my breakfast, so I just choose bread and honey.  Coffee is a must! As we are having our meals, one by one hikers start leaving the teahouse for their own directions - some may prepare the acclimatization, some may head to Tengboche and other may go back to Phakding. 

Hikers

Today will be a long journey as we are starting hiking above 3,800m elevation. Less oxygen and high altitude. We need to be extra careful to avoid AMS symptoms. Once everyone is ready we start our trail out from Namche. For about 10 - 15 minutes, we are using the same route like yesterday to Namche until we make a right turn with a slope down along the side of mountains. I noticed quite a lot of people on the trail heading to Tengboche. I can see clearly in front of me is Mount Everest (most of the time hiding behind another mountain), Mount Lotshe (on the right of mount Everest) and Ama Dablam, mostly on the right side of your trail. Really stunning view. 

Amazing trail

After nearly 2 hours of hiking, we had our coffee break at a village called Ama Dablam with the view of Ama Dablam. We are waiting for another person who has a problem with knee injury. We rested for 20 minutes and then continued our hiking until we reached Phunklu Thanga where we had our lunch there - Dhal Bhat. 

Dhal Bhat

From Phunklu Thanga, we need to cross another suspension bridge to cross the river. We saw the helicopter perform the rescue. We learned that there was a hiker who had an accident and broken leg. We knew that we needed to be really careful in this expedition because we are in a remote area and it is not easy to get any help if required. After crossing the suspension bridge, for the next 3 - 3.5 hours the trail shot straight up until we reached Tengboche. This is one of the toughest hikes - do not worry about how far the distance is, just one step at the time until we reach there. We reached there around 3.30 p.m.

Ama Dablam rest area

Tengboche is just a small mountain village at 3,860 meters and this is the largest monastery in the area. From Tengboche we can see the panoramic views of the mountainscape of Himalayas - Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse (7,861m), Tawache (6,495m), Ama Dablam (6,170m) and Thamserku (6,608m) in just a view.  We spent around 20 minutes enjoying the amazing 360 degree mountain peak views and felt so relaxed that we almost completed our journey today. I think this is my favorite trek between Namche to Tengboche - nice spectacular walking in the forest, amazing view of the mountain peaks, nice teahouses and nice weather (acceptable cold). 

Struggle - knee pain

We learned from our guide that we need to continue to a small village called Deboche overnight. From Tengboche we descended slowly in quite a thick forest before reaching Deboche for about 30 - 40 minutes. We met Naomi - the Japanese lady hiker who planned to hike to EBC and Three Passes alone, unfortunately she was unable to get the room in this Teahouse and went back to Tengboche to find her room for tonight. If not mistaken, the first time we met her was at Paiya village. We stayed overnight at Paradise Lodge & Restaurant Deboche. 

Paradise Lodge Deboche

I think the altitude has impacted me - I felt dizziness, headache and fever. I went to the dining room and there was a nice heater in the center of the room. I sat near the heater while waiting for my dinner. Really make me warms, that helps a bit for my body to recover. Maybe this is my lucky day, I can still WhatsApp my doctor, Dr Yusni Mohd Yasin, UNI Clinic - seek his medical advice on my situation. I took some medicine as prescribed (also provided by him before the expedition) and went inside my sleeping bag. It was really hard to breathe, I woke up every hour of the night - really a long cold night for me.  





DAY -9

15 October 2022 Saturday, Tengboche (Deboche - 3,820m) to Dingboche (4,410m)

11.6 km hiking for 7 hours with total ascent of 1,600 meter, cross the mark of 4,000 meters altitude and acclimation hike to 4,348 meters

Recite prayer

I felt much better this morning compared to last night - no more headache but my breathing still not good and felt like no oxygen went to my tired muscles. Unfortunately, we don’t have much time to spare, we lost 4 days because we were stranded in Phaplu and a new starting point for hiking at Kharikhola instead of Lukla. On top of the original plan from Lukla, our additional two days was equal to 35 km in hiking  and more than 3,000m in elevation. 

Tomorrow we needed to skip a day for the acclimation at Dingboche to make up for time.  Our plan was to acclimatize while hiking slowly and once we reached Dingboche, we will do an acclimation hike - as long as it is higher than our sleep altitude, i guess it should be fine. 

So amazing

We saw a lot of white monastery statues along the hiking trails. After a while, I noticed that there were not many green trees around us, I guess we had crossed 4,000 meters in altitude. We have crossed the tree line and expect less oxygen - heavy breathing. We need to stay calm and think positive - physiology to avoid AMS.  Like our guide keeps reminding - this is your epic holiday, enjoy the scenery and don’t push yourself. Just enjoy!

4,081 meters altitude

We break for lunch at Annapurna Fast Food Kitchen 4,081m (according to Garmin) - if not mistaken the place called Pangboche. As usual, Dhal Bhat or Maggi are our choices, but yet the taste is getting tasteless - just for carbo loading. I do not really take much for lunch as I looked beside the Teahouse is a small dusty hill that we need to climb after lunch. At 4,000 meters altitude, every step is really hard and every deep breath to feel the oxygen going into your lungs. The sunshine was really bright in the cold temperature - we walked on a fine dusty trail like a desert with a 360 degree view of mountains.  The panorama view of majestic and magical mountains captured my mind. I knew that I missed it soon.   

Crossing the tree line

I can feel that we have a lot of up and down hiking today - when I looked at my Garmin Fenix 7, I noticed that our total ascent is 1,600 meters - that is a really high climbing day.  Finally we reached Dingboche where on the right side we saw the glazier river come down - i guest from Ama Dablam or other mountains near mount Everest and on the left side were the hills that we need to climb to Loboche tomorrow. 

Yaks attack!

It was a really tiring day cause I was not well this morning but reaching here is a blessing for me. It is just another two days before we reach Everest BC. It's just another two days that I need to stay strong and keep healthy to ensure my dream comes true. I am really tired but yet tomorrow we will skip our acclimatization hike due to time not permitted. It is a bad idea!

Dingboche 

We decided to do an acclimatization hike today - as high as possible. Climb high, sleep low is the concept to avoid AMS. After checking-in, we just left our duffel bag and backpack in the room, drank a lot of water to keep me hydrated and started climbing the Nangkartshang Peak. We scale halfway at least 4,500m elevation - hope it is enough for acclimatization. Nangkartshang Peak is 5100m altitude located behind our Teahouse. 

Stupa Inn Dingboche

We descended down back to our Teahouse - Stupa Inn, Dingboche 4,410 meters, we saw quite a number of Yaks eating around the area - de-tour a bit to avoid the Yaks. The view from the top of the hill is so fantastic, we cannot stay longer due to the cold weather. At that time, I  just thought a cup of hot coffee would make my day. 

Acclimation hike

As usual after dinner, we chatted for a while and the guide briefed us about tomorrow's journey to Lobuche. For the first time tomorrow, we will cross 5,000 meters altitude. Amazing experience for my Epic journey and the best part is we are far away from “the world”.


Good night.


Thursday, November 10, 2022

My Epic Journey to Everest BC Part 3: Phakding - Namche - Acclimatization

The best view comes after the hardest climb

DAY -6

12 October 2022 Wednesday, Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3.440m)

The third day hiked 14 km for 9 hours with a total ascent of 2,600 meters on another wet day and reached the biggest town in the Himalayas. 

One of the highest hill above Hillary bridge

Good morning! I am very excited today as we are heading to Namche Bazaar, the largest town in the Himalayas. Today we will have a serious climb up to Namche with a total ascent up to 2,600 meters and from altitude is 830 meters. After a nice breakfast - bread and honey, we suited up with rain gear to face another wet day. One thing about nature that we cannot really plan 100% for anything when hiking in the mountains. It is what it is right?


With Nazim

After 20 minutes hiking, we reached a checkpoint to apply for the permit for Sagarmatha National Park entry. The uphill trudge to Namche continues and numerous suspension bridges we needed crossed. I do not remember if we ever had a trail for downhill between Phakding to Namche - all mainly uphill's trails or maybe one trail down after the second check-point to Sagarmatha National Park.

Stunning view like Japanese garden

After the second checkpoint we were descending down to the river side, the rain getting heavier but we can see the famous Hillary suspension bridge on top of the mountain. Which means that we need to climb up to the entry of the bridge.  This is the final suspension bridge named after Sir Edward Hillary that crosses the Dudh Koshi River at 410 feet high before Namche Bazaar. 

Check-point for permit

I do not feel comfortable crossing it as I can feel the sways by winds but yet no other options - just look forward and walk straight. At the end of the bridge, I felt like it was swinging a bit stronger and when I looked back, there was a group of Yaks entering the bridge. You can feel the heavy movement behind you. I speed-up my step to go out of the bridge. 

Hillary suspension bridge, the highest in the world

After the Hillary bridge,  for the next 2.5 - 3 hours we got to deal with the extreme steep climb up to Namche Bazaar.  I can see a lot of people along the trail are scrambling their way up and also resting to catch their breath before continuing the zig-zag climbing through the forest and dusty trails. I only focused on my steps and heart rate, taking it easy all the way up together with my other hiking buddies.

 

Take a break, let the King of Road pass thru first

After steep climb, another 1 hour to Namche

Finally we reached the end of trails and after nearly 9 hours hiking we can see the landmark of Namche Bazaar. We can see a lot of houses and shops on the sloping hills and stunning views of the mountain peak around the city (sorry can’t remember the mountain’s name). It really makes us happy that finally we are here at Namche Bazaar which is supposed to be on our Day-3 in Nepal. It is what it is, we look forward to reaching Everest BC - our ultimate goal for this mission. 

Namche check-point

We settled down at Foot Rest Lounge & Lunch Place for 2 nights as tomorrow we will hike for acclimatization. Nice Teahouse in the middle of the city. Lot of shops selling mountaineering clothes, hiking equipment etc and branded products like North Face, Sherpa, etc are available around our Teahouse. We also took an opportunity to send our clothes for laundry at the Teahouse and it was a bit expensive. Next time, you better send direct to laundry services around the corner and cheaper by 50% for Teahouse rate.  

Namche Bazaar

After early dinner, we walked around the city - the weather was a bit chilly at night. I decided to go home and rest. It is interesting to see a city without any motorcycles. No pollution except the animal’s dropping here and there. The sky at night was so amazing with clear shining stars - millions of it, really make us realize how much pollution there is in our countries. 

The 'town' of Himalayas

“Night is wonderful opportunity to take rest, to forgive, to smile, to get ready for all the battles that you have to fight tomorrow” - anonymous 




DAY -7

13 October 2022 Thursday, Namche Acclimatization Day - Everest View Point (3,880m)

Finally the beautiful sunny day for acclimatization hike 5.2 km for 5 hours with a total ascent of 470 meters. Magical panorama mountains peak.  

 

Acclimatization day -  View point

Good morning. 

After 6 nights in the Himalayas, finally I had a good sleep - maybe I knew that we would stay here for another night. No need to worry about packing your bag everyday for the next journey. From our room’s window, we can see the beautiful mountain and today is a beautiful day. Finally we see the sun shine brightly to the mountains and the mountain peak looks like a golden peak. 

Climbing up to Namche Hills for better acclimatization

Immediately after breakfast, we were ready to start our acclimatization hike up to 470 meters from 3,440 meters to nearly 4,000 meters. I told myself once I reach 3,000 meters and above, I walk slowly and enjoy the mountain scenery around me. Even though I have the strength, I will take it easy and all this is about ensuring I do not get hit by AMS.

Stunning majestic mountains

As I hike up Namche's hill (not sure if there is another name), but the trail is really steep up and zig-zagged to the top. It was a really beautiful day with a clear blue sky. Amazing. We hike up to the Panorama Hotel and climb the peak nearby and guess what? In front of us, along the horizon the mountain’s peak of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. It is really huge even from far away - another 4 days hiking journey to see them closer. Subhanallah. 

Zoom in the mount Everest or Lhotse

For comparison purposes, we were at the peak of Mount Kinabalu 4.095 meters. the highest mountain in Malaysia and Borneo island (I think also the highest in ASEAN countries e.g. Indonesia, Philippines, Thailand and around the region).

Beautiful day, amazing 360 view and a cup of coffee

Amazing day, the sky is so magnificent blue and I took hundreds of photos. It was a blessing in this breathtaking scenery after two days stranded at Phaplu village and three days hiking in the rain to reach Namche. Nothing much to ask, just keep the weather like this until we complete our Everest BC expedition. Then we drop by at Panorama Hotel 3,910 meters and have nice hot tea and vegetable spring rolls. While having our snacks, we can see a 360 degree view of magnificent peaks- felt like a luxury mesmerizing scene, so magical. So awesome! Not everyone in this world is able to enjoy this amazing moment!  

#KoyokAdventureTeam

We spent some time enjoying the amazing and stunning views up here. Around 1 pm we started descending down back to Namche. Amazing day! We had our lunch at the Teahouse and then went out again to a nearby bakery shop. We were told that don’t miss the carrot chocolate cake in Namche - it is the best in the world! We were so lucky that the bakery shop is just opposite our Teahouse. We had our cake and coffee - I tell you it's really delicious! Don’t miss it if you are at Namche Bazaar. 

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